Sunday, December 11, 2022

Send Something


OK, so I have a goal for my time here in Bishop: I just want to send SOMETHING. Now, I know what you're thinking: Define "something." And that's easy: "Something" to me is basically anything V3 or harder, or even a cool hard V2. For example, Slight Inducement Right would be something to me. It's overhung, the movement is amazing, the last move is spicy. And although Slight Inducement V1 has amazing movement too, and is an incredible problem, it doesn't really meet the criteria for this goal. Because grades do matter.

I'm in Lone Pine again this morning, drinking my cocoa, thinking about the day. I've already done a little light stretching/physical therapy, and I tried to take a walk but it was so damn cold and windy outside that I had to retreat after about a block. But this wind means the boulders will dry out QUICKLY. I must say, though, my body didn't feel great on the walk. Walking for me is a good metric of how I feel. And I didn't feel great. But I think with a couple more cocoas, more stretching, more physical therapy, I'll feel pretty damn good. And I'll be ready to head back north to Bishop, where I already have a room reserved at Hostel California. But first I'll probably go back to the Sad Boulders, where I'll maybe try French Press V6, maybe try Pow Pow V7/8, or maybe just do individual moves on a V2, which is what I've done the first two sessions. 

Which brings me to yesterday's session, and a trend that seems to be developing in my climbing. 

A building in Lone Pine, CA. If you zoom in you can see the sign says Mount Whitney Rifle club.

Yesterday I went to the Sad Boulders with the intention of mostly hiking and maybe climbing a bit. As in my previous sessions, I basically found a boulder with some nice holds on it and just started trying individual moves. Like I look at the boulder and think, I wonder how I get from that hold to that hold. And then I start trying it, and I experiment with different methods, and I'm satisfied when I find the most efficient way possible. And then maybe I add a move from a lower spot on the boulder, or maybe I add a move or two up top. Repeat, repeat, repeat, until a move that felt hard or confusing feels good and close to effortless.

Then it started raining.
But I was happy with the session.
So I went home.
But not before stopping at Von's and buying a shit ton of yogurt.


Apparently Blogger thinks that last part is a poem and won't let me change the formatting. But that's ok. I like it as a poem.

Although I'm a grade chaser, the thing that most gets me pysched in climbing is the movement, and figuring out moves. This is something that is just beginning to crystalize for me. This is also why I can go out on a session, do a few moves that feel really good, not climbing anything from bottom to top, but still feel really good. For me, if you're progressing in this way, everything else is irrelevant. The sends WILL COME. But they'll come when it's a natural moment for them to do so. They won't be forced. Eventually you'll find a boulder where you enjoy all the moves -- or you can figure out a WAY to enjoy all the moves --- and then you'll do it from bottom to top just because it feels natural. And then you will have "sent" a boulder, and maybe it'll even be in the guidebook. Just remember that the people who made the guidebook are human, just like you. Maybe you like starting in a different place on the climb, because it makes it easier or you find the movement more interesting. Do that climb. Don't worry if it's not "right," or if it's not in the guidebook. Do that climb. 

At first I was a bit worried that I'm getting in the habit of "not sending." But then I realized, Who cares? I'm getting in the habit of learning, of messing around, of having fun, of becoming a better climber. The sends will come. 

I wish I didn't have to check out of this room in an hour and a half. 

These little missions, where I don't try super hard every day and just mess around, are also awesome because they're sustainable; I can do them every day. That's important when you're road tripping and not working and need a mission for every day. So now I've got my routine: Wake up, roll around in bed a little bit, get out of bed, stretch a bit, make my first cocoa, if it's after 8am I can check my phone(s). At some point I have another cup of cocoa, and at some point I take a short walk, get some sun on my face. At some point I write this blog. Then I do more stretching, and physical therapy exercises like bridges and supermans and other stuff. Maybe some pushups. Then, mid morning, I leave on my mission, which involves a bit of hiking and the aforementioned bouldering process.

Then, in the afternoon, I lounge. This last part needs some work. It involves lots of screentime and not a little bit of beer. 

Hopefully tonight I meet some people at Hostel California. 

And hopefully today I maybe even send something. 






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