Monday, November 21, 2022

R2V6: Heel Hook Beta on Leggo My Ego?

I'm going back to Leggo My Ego V6 today. I'm going to try keeping my left foot lower, and if that doesn't work I'll try the left heel hook beta. All I have to do is get to the throw. I know I can do the throw. I just have to figure out a less strenuous, higher percentage way of getting there. 

I'm hoping my left achilles will cooperate. It was aggravated during my second climbing sesh the other day. I put my shoe on and it felt terrible. I should've just not climbed, but it seemed so strange that my left achilles could be hurting I just kept going. Yes, my priority is my achilles, but I also really want to climb today. I made some good progress on Leggo the last time, and I've been thinking about it a lot. I think I got too wrapped up in the short person beta. The guys I saw do the bottom were both several inches shorter than me. That high left foot could be bad for me. Plus, I have to figure out how to be as NOT scrunched as possible. I don't do well scrunched. That's why the bottom of Leggo is way easier for shorter people, while the top is way harder. 

I might stay in the Blue Elk Lodge tonight in Leavenworth. It would set me back $300 after taxes. But it's OK. My monthly budget for getting off the boat is $400. Then again, if I drive south on December 1st, to Bend, Bishop and beyond to J-Tree and Red Rocks, I'll be spending a lot more on lodging. There's no way I'm camping in Bishop again. Last time it was fucking freezing. Maybe if I got a new sleeping bag, though... 

I'm thinking about staying in Bishop for a week in December. As long as it's not too cold the first night, maybe I could even extend by camping the first night. That way I'd be in Bishop eight days. Climbing every other day, that's four days of climbing! I can't do what I did in Squamish, which was climb two days, take one day off. My body starts to degrade. But you need a bit of time in Bishop, if you're going to actually project anything...

The goal for that week would be to send a V4 there. Maybe a V5?

Ketron Classic, Anti-Hero, Serengeti, Molly, Solarium...any other suggestions for for good (easy) 4's and 5's in Bishop? Preferably in the Happies or the Sads, since my car can barely make it to the Buttermilks. 

Am I caffeinated right now? I had two cups of cacao with a superfood powder that has maca, ashwagandha and reishi. 

I'm theobrominated.

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